Rigs

Live Bait Rig

A strong, simple rig built around a live baitfish swimming naturally — the setup for kingfish, tuna, mulloway and big snook when only the real thing will do.

BoatJettyShoreIntermediate
MAIN LINE
20–50 lb braid
FLOAT
Optional — small game float
SWIVEL
Size 2–4 strong swivel
LEADER
40–80 lb fluorocarbon 1–2 m
HOOK
4/0–8/0 live bait hook bridle or nose-hooked

You'll Need

Swivel
Size 2–4 strong
Leader
40–80 lb fluorocarbon
Hook
4/0–8/0 live bait
Float
Optional game float
Bait
Live herring / tommy / squid

Step-by-Step Instructions

1

Catch or buy lively baits — tommy ruff, herring, small squid or pike are prime.

2

Tie the swivel to the end of your main line.

3

Tie a 1–2 m length of 40–80 lb fluorocarbon to the swivel.

4

Tie the live bait hook to the leader and hook the bait lightly through the nose or lip (or bridle-rig for tuna) so it swims naturally.

5

Add a small float above the swivel if you want the bait suspended and visible; otherwise let it swim free.

HOW TO FISH IT

Send the live bait out and let it swim where predators hunt — along structure, under birds, in current lines or down a berley trail. Keep the bail open or clicker on; when the bait is taken, let the fish run and swallow, then set the drag and lift into it.

WHEN TO USE IT

When predators are keyed in on live food — kingfish around structure, tuna behind the boat, mulloway in deep channels and big snook under jetties. The single most effective way to catch big fish consistently.

VARIATIONS

Bridle-rig with a rubber band and circle hook for tuna; float-rig under jetties for snook; deep-drop a weighted live bait for mulloway; slow-troll the livie behind the boat for kingfish.

COMMON MISTAKES

Hooking the bait too deeply so it dies quickly, leaders too light that get cut on structure or teeth, and striking before the fish has properly taken the bait.

A4GW Crew

A4GW CREW

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